When a Tennessee hailstorm rolls through, adrenaline and questions spike just as fast as the weather alerts.
If you’re in the Knoxville area, here’s a clear, homeowner-friendly plan to go from “ice bombs on the roof” to “claim filed, scope agreed, roof restored”, plus a quick guide to what your policy should (and shouldn’t) cover in 2026.

Avoid climbing on the roof. Do a ground-level walk-around, shoot clear, timestamped photos and 20-30 second videos of all sides, downspouts, soft metals (gutters, fascia, flashing), AC fins, fences, and any broken glass.
Inside, photograph ceiling spots and attic moisture. If water is entering, do temporary protective repairs (tarps, plastic sheeting) and save all receipts, “reasonable emergency repairs” are typically reimbursable by insurers.
Call your insurer or agent right away and log the claim number. Tennessee regulators repeatedly advise filing as soon as possible after severe weather; quick notice helps you meet policy deadlines and speeds assignment to an adjuster.
Ask a reputable Knoxville roofer for a storm report + photo package documenting hail size indicators (dented soft metals, bruised shingles, cracked tiles), wind direction, and slopes affected.
A written repair/replacement scope with itemized line items (underlayment, ridge, vents, flashings, ice/water shield in valleys) will help set expectations with the adjuster.
(If your material is discontinued or no longer matches, see “Matching” below.)
Be there, ideally with your roofer, to walk each slope and accessory. Keep the discussion factual (“what was damaged” - “what it takes to restore”).
If access is tricky (steep or high), ask the carrier for a drone or ladder-assist inspection so the whole roof is properly viewed.
With Replacement Cost Value (RCV), the carrier typically pays the full cost to restore covered damage (you pay the deductible), releasing “recoverable depreciation” after work is completed.
With Actual Cash Value (ACV), depreciation stays deducted, leaving you with a larger out-of-pocket.
Check your declarations page or ask your agent which applies to your roof (some policies are RCV on the house but ACV on the roof). naic.org
Some Tennessee policies use a separate wind/hail deductible (often a flat amount or % of Coverage A).
Others add cosmetic-damage exclusions, especially for metal roofs, that may deny coverage for dents that don’t cause leaks. Know your exact language before you choose between repair and replacement. hutins.com
Ask, in writing, for the carrier’s itemized estimate and the policy provisions behind any denial or omitted line items (e.g., ridge caps, pipe boots, valley metal).
You can request a re-inspection, consult a third party contractor, or explore the policy’s appraisal clause if disagreements persist.
If you suspect unfair treatment, you can file a complaint with the Tennessee Department of Commerce & Insurance (TDCI) Consumer Insurance Services online or by mail; they mediate consumer complaints statewide. cloudfront.net
Most standard homeowners policies cover direct physical loss from wind and hail. In real life, that often includes hail-bruised shingles, fractured mats, broken tiles, cracked skylights, dented soft metals, and wind-torn tabs or ridge.
(Confirm on your declarations page—language varies by insurer.)
If you have RCV, expect an initial payment (ACV minus deductible), then a second payment for recoverable depreciation after the work is completed.
Under ACV-only, depreciation isn’t reimbursed, so the final payout is lower. This difference can make or break a roof replacement budget. naic.org
Tennessee regulations say that when the replacement materials don’t match in quality, color, or size, the insurer must replace enough to create a “reasonably uniform appearance.”
This applies to interior and exterior losses, and you shouldn’t owe more than your deductible for that uniformity when the loss is covered. Practically, if only part of the roof was damaged but the shingle is discontinued (or can’t be matched due to age/fade), the scope may need to expand so the finished result is uniform. law.cornell.edu
Building code changes since your last roof can require ice/water barrier in valleys, new ventilation, or updated flashing details.
Ordinance or Law coverage (an endorsement/limit on many policies) helps pay those code-mandated upgrades after a covered loss, costs that base coverage may not fully pay. Ask your agent to confirm your O&L limit before work starts. thezebra.com
Many insurers now exclude purely cosmetic hail damage (dents/dings that don’t affect watertightness), particularly on metal roofs.
The result: a steep roof dotted with dents may not be covered unless the policy lacks the exclusion, or the dents impair seams/locks or finish integrity.
Read your policy’s hail/cosmetic and marring language closely before you sign off on a cash settlement. mwl-law.com
Reasonable temporary repairs (tarps, drying) and measures to protect contents are typically covered when you keep receipts and the damage stems from a covered peril.
If interior water damage occurred because the hail compromised the roof, related repairs are commonly included in the claim scope.
(Why spring claims spike)
Large hail in East Tennessee peaks in late spring, with May historically showing a pronounced maximum for big hail events in the Morristown/Knoxville forecast area, one more reason to keep your documentation game sharp this time of year.
Pro Tips for a Smoother Knoxville Storm Damage Insurance Claim

You can absolutely win the post-hail scramble.
Stabilize and document, file fast, bring a pro to the inspection, know your RCV vs. ACV, and lean on Tennessee’s matching rule when materials won’t match.
Round that out with the right code-upgrade coverage and a sharp eye for cosmetic exclusions, and you’ll navigate your 2026 Knoxville roof claim with far fewer surprises—and a roof that looks right and keeps you dry.
Practical answers to common roofing, siding, and gutter questions.
Each article breaks down one specific problem or decision with clear steps, realistic costs, and what to watch out for.
Written by contractors who've seen these situations hundreds of times.
Water stains on ceilings or walls, missing or damaged shingles, wet insulation in the attic, or visible daylight through roof boards are the most common signs.
Most leaks come from failed flashing around chimneys and vents, damaged or missing shingles, worn valley seals, or clogged gutters causing water backup.
Stopping them requires finding the source and fixing the entry point, not just patching the stain inside.
Asphalt shingle roofs typically last 20 to 25 years, metal roofs 40 to 70 years, depending on material quality, installation quality, ventilation, and climate.
Most roofs fail early due to poor ventilation or installation errors, not material defects.
Repair if damage is isolated and the roof is under 15 years old.
Replace if you have multiple problem areas, the roof is over 20 years old, or you're seeing widespread granule loss and curling shingles.
When in doubt, get an honest inspection.
A thorough roof inspection checks shingles or panels, flashing around penetrations, valleys and ridges, ventilation, gutters, soffits and fascia, attic moisture and insulation, and structural deck condition.
You should get a written report with photos and prioritized recommendations.
Metal roofs last longer and require less maintenance but cost more upfront.
Shingle roofs cost less initially and are easier to repair but need replacement sooner.
The right choice depends on your budget, how long you plan to stay in the home, and your climate.
Asphalt shingles work well for most homes and budgets.
Metal is better for longevity and severe weather.
Your choice should consider roof pitch, architectural style, local climate, HOA rules, and whether you plan to stay long-term or sell soon.
Yes. Underlayment is your roof's secondary water barrier.
Skipping it to save money is a critical mistake that voids most warranties and leads to premature failure. Always replace underlayment during a reroof.
Most residential roof replacements take 2 to 4 days depending on size, complexity, weather, and material type.
Delays happen due to rain, material delivery issues, or discovering hidden deck damage during tear-off.
Expect noise, debris, and strangers on your property for several days.
Good contractors protect your landscaping, do daily clean-up including magnetic nail sweeps, communicate progress, and complete the job on schedule.
You should stay informed but won't need to be home the entire time.
No, but someone should be available by phone.
Contractors need access to exterior outlets and water, and decisions sometimes need to be made if hidden damage is found.
Most homeowners go to work as usual and check in at the end of each day.
A typical residential roof replacement costs between 8000 and 15000 dollars for asphalt shingles, or 15000 to 30000 dollars for metal, depending on size, pitch, complexity, and material quality.
Get three written estimates and compare what's included, not just the bottom line.
Insurance typically covers sudden damage from storms or fire, but not wear and tear or age-related failure.
If you have documented storm damage, file a claim quickly and get a professional inspection to support it.
Roofs over 20 years old may face depreciation or coverage limits.
Yes. A 200 to 400 dollar roof inspection can save you thousands by identifying problems before closing.
If the roof needs replacement soon, you can negotiate with the seller or budget for it.
Don't rely on general home inspectors for detailed roof assessments.
Gutters should drain water away from your foundation without overflowing, sagging, or leaking at seams.
Check during heavy rain - if water spills over edges, pools near the foundation, or you see rust and rot, your gutters aren't working.
Gutter guards reduce maintenance and prevent clogs if you have trees nearby, but they're not foolproof.
Quality systems cost 8 to 12 dollars per linear foot installed. Cheap snap-on guards often cause more problems than they solve.
Replace siding if you see cracks, warping, rot, water intrusion behind panels, or significantly faded color.
Isolated damage can be repaired, but widespread issues across multiple walls usually mean it's time for full replacement.
Vinyl costs less and requires minimal maintenance but can crack in cold and fade in sun.
Fiber cement is more durable and fire-resistant but costs more and requires painting every 10 to 15 years. Both last 30 to 50 years when installed properly.